![]() ![]() ![]() Just click on the chromatic Aberration checkbox and it will analyse the image. With this set, you may have to tell it to analyse the image to compensate for Chromatic Aberration, but this is easy. ![]() If the lens you’re using doesn’t have a profile, you’ll have to use the “generic” one. If you’re working with adapted lenses, you may need to set the profile manually. Despite the name, it works on colours other than purple too. If you have some fringing in your image that isn’t been fixed by the normal chromatic aberration controls, then adjusting the purple fringing slider may help. The effectiveness of this will depend on the lens, but it is based off the profiles, and works well in my opinion.Īnother thing that you may want to tweak, depending on the image and the lens is the purple fringing control. This is usually set to zero, and depending on what you want to achieve, increasing this should compensate for the lens vignetting. Light falloff compensates for signeting caused by the lens. It can help a little, depending on the lens, but if the edges are very soft, there’s only so much it can do. Increasing sharpness falloff will attempt to compensate for soft edges by increasing the sharpness in the edges of the frame. The other two, Sharpness Falloff and Light Fall Off are usually set to zero. I suspect that for lenses with minimal distortion, they have chosen to leave it at zero. Distortion should be set to 100% if a lens profile has been correctly set, although this seems to depend on the lens. In the lens correction panel, under the Lens tape, you should see three sliders. However, you may still need to adjust some of the parameters. If you’re using a Sony lens, the lens profile should be set automatically. The new Halo Suppression can also help if your images look a bit over-sharpened.įor useful tips on setting the black levels in Capture One, see this post.Ī few other useful tips Setting the Les Correction Parameters I’ve found that there may be a level of Raw pre-sharpening going on with A7 files, as they’re very sharp as is, and you usually need to turn down the default sharpening quite a bit to get them to look natural. You may or may not like the, but if you’ve been struggling, I hope this gives you a good starting point. Halo Suppression: 0 - 30 - This can help if your edges are looking a bit over-sharpened.Īgain, these are just my settings. ![]() Sharpening Amount: 50 - 150 (The default is too sharp in my opinion).Most of it’s the same, but with the following exceptions : For the A7IIįor the A72 I do things a little differently. I would rather have a small amount of image grain, than a processed look. I also thing the threshold, which defaults at 1 gives the image a slightly “digital” look, but, again, that’s just my opinion. I think the noise reduction setting is definitely too high by default though. Obviously, you will need to change these based on your own preferences. Luminance: 10 - 30 (raise for higher ISO)Īs you can see, there’s not a huge difference here, but these few settings, I think make a big improvement. ICC Profile: Sony A6000 Generic (or whatever camera you are using)Ĭolour Balance - Shadow: Drop the value by about 10% to lower the black levels.If you can’t find a specific tool, you can add it by right clicking on the interface and choosing: Add Tool > Specific Tool. These are for Capture One Pro 10, and the locations of various settings are based on the new default workspace. These are where I start, and you can then tweak these depending on the image, the iso of the shot and so on. Here are the settings that I use as a base level for my A6000. I also recommend changing the default tone curve to the higher contrast option, but that’s a personal preference. The noise reduction is set too high by default, and there are a few tweaks that you can make to the sharpening settings too. In my opinion, the defaults are not optimal for getting the best results. In particular, the sharpening and noise reduction options. To get the best results from Sony Raw files, I recommend a few changes to the default settings. In the past I’ve used it with both a Sony A7II (Which I had borrowed), and my own Sony A6000. In particular, I find that it does a really nice job when working with files from Sony cameras. I’ve talked a lot about using Capture One Pro for processing Fuji Files here on this blog, but I also use it when working with other cameras too. ![]()
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